Retinoids should be a staple in your skincare regime! If it isn't, get yourself some!
Commonly known as Retinol, the retinoid family consists of a group of components derived from Vitamin A and has powerful anti-ageing effects by slowing down the aging process as well as working wonders for acne patients (which is where your Roaccutane patients come in). This has been proven since the 70's and one of the earliest anti-ageing product findings we have.
Now a little bit about the science; Vitamin A is a fat-soluble substance, it penetrates the top layer of the skin (the epidermis) and works to stimulate the activity of different cells that are in the skin, hereby strengthening the outer layer, slowing down the breakdown of collagen and increasing cell turnover which all naturally slow down as we age. This results in a reduction of the appearance of wrinkles and fades pigmentation. For acne patients, this increase in cell turnover prevents the pores clogging up and reduces inflammation.
If you want to introduce retinol for anti-aging purposes it is advised to add this in your mid 20's, as a general rule, once the anti-aging process begins (sadly)! If you are interested in using it for acne purposes, under 18's must consult their GP or dermatologist first.
Which retinoid should you be using?!
It comes as a ladder, the idea is go up the ladder (however you can start and go back in different steps if it doesn't work for you).
Over-the-counter (OTC) retinoids vary in strength and up to 1% include;
Retinyl Esters, Retinol & Retinaldehyde. Your prescription-strength retinoids include;
Tretinoin (retinoic acid) and Isotretinoin. Tretinoin is known to be 20x more potent than retinol, however, this doesn't mean we need to jump straight to this, retinol is still proven to be very effective in reducing lines and wrinkles.
The problem as you go up the retinoid ladder is that with stronger potency comes more irritability and less compliance, side effects such as burning, stinging, redness and flaking tend to put people off. The less conversions the better the penetration and ideally better effects.
The good thing about Retinoids is they can be slowed down and sped up according to tolerability, if you find your skin is becoming flaky, have a few days off, next application try a smaller amount and wait longer in-between days.
If you have very sensitive skin/rosacea/eczema or other topical skin conditions, opt for a low strength retinol to begin with, as your skin gets used to it you may be able to build this up, low and slow is key.
Once your skin is able to tolerate your retinoid of choice, go up a ladder! Your skin will thank you for it later on, remember your tretinoins must be prescribed.
Avoid retinoids around your eyes.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS remember the retinol purge. This is where your skin temporarily breaks out due to the increased cell turnover and bringing oil and debris to the surface, you must not be put off by this and continuing compliance is essential, always consult your practitioner if in doubt.
Lastly, never forget your sunscreen! SPF 50, 365 days a year, ESPECIALLY when using retinoids, the mechanism of Vitamin A causes the skin to be more sensitive to sunlight and more likely to cause damage to the skin if a high strength SPF is not applied.
Retinoids should ONLY be applied at night.
Can we prescribe your retinoid?
Yes! A consultation with our prescriber first is essential and a thorough skin consultation will take place to assess suitability and strength of retinoid for you.
